Ezweni lapho isiko likhula khona emhlabeni wonke, amasiko amasiko ezwe ngalinye ahlala njengenhliziyo yabantu balo. Futhi uma abantu bethatha indawo enkulu, isiko labo cishe liyoceba, lihlukahlukene, futhi lihlukahlukene. Lokhu kunjalo ngeRussia.
Namuhla sizokhuluma ngengubo yendabuko yaseRussia. Ingubo enemibala, enemihlobiso eyinkimbinkimbi, futhi eyenziwe ngezandla njalo. Njengefa elivela kokhokho bethu, le ngubo iyaqhubeka nokuvela emasontweni, kumathiyetha, kuma-studio okudansa, nasemikhosini.
Imvunulo yendabuko yaseRussia
Ingubo yendabuko yaseRussia yaqala ukuthuthuka kanjalo, ngezici zayo ezithile, kusukela ngekhulu lesi-9 kuqhubeke. Usuku oluqondile alwaziwa, kodwa kulinganiselwa ukuthi lwalucishe lube ngaleso sikhathi noma eminyakeni eyikhulu ngaphambili.
Kuze kube sekuqaleni kwekhulu le-18, abalimi kanye nama-boyars (izicukuthwane) babegqoka izingubo zendabuko, kodwa ngo-1700 uTsar Peter the Great waqala ukwethula izinguquko ngokugqoka izingubo zesitayela saseNtshonalanga yena ngokwakhe . UPeter wayeyithanda iYurophu, wayeyithanda, ngakho waqala ukwenqabela ukusetshenziswa kwezingubo zendabuko, okungenani emadolobheni aseRussia.
Ngaleso sikhathi kwakusebenzela abalimi baseRussia ukuthi balondoloze futhi balondoloze ukunotha nobuhle bezingubo zendabuko zaseRussia. Ezinye izingcezu zendabuko azisasetshenziswa namuhla, kepha ezinye zikwazile ukusinda ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, ekugcineni zaba yisithonjana.
Kodwa ingabe kunezingubo zaseRussia ezingaphezu kweyodwa zendabuko? Vele. Empeleni, singakhuluma ngezimbili: i-sarafan kanye ne-poneva. I-sarafan ifana nejezi elide, elikhululekile eligqokwa phezu kwehembe elide lelineni elibanjwe ngebhande. Leli bhande liyisitayela sakudala futhi laligqokwa ngaphansi kwe-sarafan. Le ngubo ikhulunywe ngayo okokuqala ngekhulu le-14 futhi yayigqokwa ngamadoda kuphela; yayibonakala njengengubo yabesifazane kuphela ngekhulu le-17.
I-sarafan yayenziwe ngelineni elivamile noma ikotini ephrintiwe engabizi , eyayikhiqizwa ngobuningi emafektri eMoscow nasezifundeni zase-Ivanovo naseVladimir. Le ngubo ende, enemibala, engavamile yayigqokwa phezu kwengubo elula ebizwa ngokuthi i-rubakha.
Uma i-sarafan yayidingeka emcimbini okhethekile, yayingahlotshiswa ngosilika nama-brocade noma ihlotshiswe ngegolide nesiliva . Ukusetshenziswa kwe-sarafan kwasakazeka kuzo zonke izifundazwe ezisenyakatho zoMbuso WaseRussia wangaleso sikhathi, kuze kufike eNovgorod, ePskov, eVologda nase-Arkhangelsk.
I-poneva uhlobo lwesiketi esivame ukugqokwa ezifundazweni eziseningizimu yeMoscow, njengeVoronezh, iTambov, neTula. Eqinisweni, indala kune-sarafan . I-poneva iyisiketi esivamile noma esinemigqa esihlanganiswe ngentambo noma esisongwe ezinqeni, sigqokwe nehembe elikhululekile elinemikhono ehlotshisiwe kanye ne-apron ehlotshiswe kahle ngamaribhoni anemibala kanye nemihlobiso.
Ngakolunye uhlangothi, sine- rubakha, ihembe elikhulu kakhulu elifana nesici esiyisisekelo sesudi yaseRussia. Wonke umuntu wayeligqoka—abesilisa, abesifazane, abacebile nabampofu. Indwangu yayingaba yinhle noma ingabizi, isilika noma ikotini. Yayiyingubo ekhululekile kakhulu futhi yayingashintshi kangako kwaze kwaba sekhulwini lama-20.
I-kokoshnik yayiyisigqoko sekhanda sabesifazane . Kwakuyinto evamile ukuthi abesifazane bagqoke imihlobiso yekhanda neyezinwele, futhi kuye ngesimo sabo senhlalo, babevunyelwe ukukhombisa le mihlobiso. Abesifazane abashadile kwakudingeka bamboze amakhanda abo ngokuphelele ngale ngubo, kuyilapho abesifazane abangashadile babehlobisa awabo ngezimbali neminye imihlobiso. Lezi zigqoko zekhanda zazivame ukwenziwa ngezinto ezibizayo futhi zazigqokwa izikhathi ezimbalwa kuphela ngonyaka.
Empilweni yansuku zonke, kwakugqokwa izigqoko noma ishawl eboshiwe ebizwa ngokuthi i-povoyniki kuphela. Ijazi loboya, elibizwa ngokuthi i-shuba , seliye lasinda amakhulu eminyaka futhi lihlala lithandwa kakhulu kulo lonke izwe. Laligqokwa ngamadoda nabesifazane, njengoba iRussia inesimo sezulu esibandayo. Uboya babuvame ukusetshenziswa ngaphakathi kwengubo, kanti ingaphandle lalihlotshiswe ngeminye imihlobiso. Namuhla, ijazi lilula kodwa lifeza injongo efanayo: ukugcina lifudumele.
Igama elithi kaftan laziwa kabanzi ngoba livela eMpumalanga Ephakathi. Kodwa-ke, seligxile eRussia futhi manje selibhekwa njengengxenye yengubo yalo yendabuko. Liyijazi , elifana kakhulu nanoma yiliphi ijazi lesimanje, kodwa lenziwe ngezindwangu ezibizayo futhi lihlotshiswe ngemifekethiso . Njengoba iRussia iyizwe elikhulu, izindwangu ziyahlukahluka, njengoba kunjalo nangemihlobiso. Ngezinye izikhathi zinobucwebe obuhlotshisiwe; eningizimu, izinkinobho noma imihlobiso yoboya ivamile.
Nokho, kusukela ngekhulu le-14 kuya kwele-18, kwenzeka izinguquko ezithile ezingutsheni zendabuko zaseRussia ngenxa yokuxhumana okuseduze phakathi kweRussia neYurophu . Cabanga ukuthi ngaleso sikhathi, i-Italy neFrance zazithumela uboya, usilika, kanye ne-velvet kwamanye amazwe, futhi izingubo ezihlotshisiwe zaqala ukubaluleka. Isibonelo, ngesikhathi sokubusa kuka-Ivan the Terrible, labo abangena eKremlin kwakudingeka bagqoke izingubo zendabuko njengophawu lokuhlonipha isihlalo sobukhosi, kanti ngekhulu le-17, labo ababeba ngabasentshonalanga kakhulu ezingutsheni zabo nasezindleleni zabo zezinwele babejeziswa.
Ngakho-ke, ngaphandle kwezimbalwa, imfashini yaseNtshonalanga yalwa kanzima ukungena eRussia . Njengoba sishilo ngaphambili, kwabe sekufika uPeter Omkhulu, futhi izinto zashintsha ngaphansi kwalo mguquli wamasiko. Umndeni wasebukhosini wathatha isinyathelo sokuqala sokushintsha imfashini, ugqoka isitayela saseYurophu, unethonya elikhulu lesiFulentshi, unama-corsets nezigqoko zekhanda ezinde abesifazane abaqala ukuzigqoka.
Ngokusobala, abacebile kuphela abakwazi ukukhokhela ushintsho olunjalo kwezemfashini, ngakho-ke ngokushesha kwaba khona lowo mehluko ohlukanisayo phakathi kwalabo ababenamandla ezomnotho futhi bewugqoka ngokuvakashela abaseYurophu nalabo ababengenawo futhi okufanele bahlale nezingubo zesintu. Emadolobheni, eMoscow noma eSt. Petersburg bekubonakala kakhulu.
Ngekhulu le-19 nelama -20 , isitayela seRococo saba yinto evelele, kodwa ngekhulu elisha, imfashini yaba lula , nezingubo zaseRussia ezikhululekile njenge-sarapan ezithandekayo zabuya. Ngaphansi kweSoviet Union, isitayela senziwa saba lula nakakhulu, kodwa izingubo zaseRussia zendabuko ngandlela thile zakwazi ukugcinwa emikhosini.